FOOD PLOT SUCCESS

Food plots can be a very effective way to bring deer to your area and also provides a supplemental or emergency food source for not only deer but other types of wildlife in the area as well. Adding a plot to your property is a great way to give back to your hunting area and help your heard make it through the harsh winter months. Well-designed food plots can provide year-round, high-quality wildlife foods by including a variety of plant species. Green growing plants are a great choice for the early season when they are transitioning out of the harsh winter months. Deer will be searching for fresh browse and lots of it to make up for the months where plant growth is slowed due to the harsh winter conditions. Plants like sorghum will often give the best results for multiple wildlife species as their seeds are rich in energy, persistent on the plant, and usually available to wildlife when snow or ice covers other seeds. It is important to choose a seed that grows at the desired time you will be hunting those areas and depending on the plot size you should choose a seed that can sustain the stress of high browse locations.

FOOD PLOT PREPARATION

  1. Take the time to really plan out your food plot before you start hacking and chopping. Your food plot or kill plots should be tucked away in an area that is off the beaten path and hidden. Our hunting property is bordered by state on three sides with a state trail on one side. We deal with flooding since it is close to sea level so our options for plots are limited. I found the perfect spot. It was a deer crossing naturally from the start. It got sun already without much work. It was in the center of the property where nobody can see it and most importantly, it never floods. We found two good areas like this that we planted.
  2. Clear your new food plot area of trees and thick vegetation. It is important to remember that plant’s need decent sunlight to grow successfully. Every plant is different in its daily requirements so be mindful when choosing the proper seed blend for your area. Do not stack brush and debris on the outskirts of the plot. Deer do not like feeling stuck and this can make them avoid the plot all together. Take the extra time to drag the brush into the woods. When clearing vegetation first spray everything with Glyphosate (Roundup) and allow the product at least a week to work. This will ensure that the spray makes it to the root system and has time to properly kill off the plant before mowing which could potentially spread more weed seeds. Some weed killers can stick around in the soil, be mindful of this when choosing your herbicide. You may need multiple applications during this process as it should be your goal to kill off everything. Weeds can take over your plot in no time so take your time with this step if you can.
  3. Soil samples can be a cheap way of getting positive results. This step is often skipped but without proper soil PH your plots will not do well regardless of how much fertilizer you use. If the soil PH is off your plants will not be able to properly absorb the nutrients needed to grow strong lush foliage. This means you could be wasting money on fertilizers if your ph isn’t at the proper range. Most new plots will require lime to balance the ph of the soil. Powdered lime works faster then pelletized lime but pelletized lime is easier to work with. There are other options on the market today like plot doctor which can speed up this process.
  4. Once you sprayed the vegetation in your plot and you’ve given the herbicide time to work clear the area of all brush and logs and rake and clear the leaves from the plot. At this time you may apply your lime and prepare your plot to be tilled. Tilling in the lime may help it work a little faster but it will still take time. If you are using plot doctor or another form of liquid lime it can be sprayed after your seeds are spread or you can mix it with roundup if it makes it easier.
  5. Take some time to really break up the soil on the first initial till. Give it a few passes to break up the old root systems under the ground and allow for new fresh growth to take place. It may take a few years to obtain a perfect plot but if you stay on top of your annual maintenance it could be very profitable. Some of the best years I have had on my hunting property involved the use of food plots.

COVER CROPS

Cover crops are used to help increase soil health, improve soil structure, prevent erosion, suppress weed growth, maintain soil moisture, and of course adds an additional natural food source to your hunting area. Cover crops are divided into two main categories, legumes and non-legumes. Legumes take nitrogen from the air and convert it into a form used by plants. It is recommended that legume seed be inoculated with species-specific rhizobacteria for maximum nitrogen fixation to occur. Using inoculated seed will provide the required fertility without helping the weeds, thus reducing the need to apply nitrogen fertilizers. Use a combination of legumes and non-legumes for the best results. There are many commercially available seed mixes to make it easier for the novice plot maker.

LEGUMES

  • Crimson Clover
    • Sow in spring or fall, Reseeding annually.
    • Tolerates some shade.
    • Produces red flowers that will attract pollinators.
    • It prevents nutrient runoff and allows more precipitation to go into the soil while pulling nutrients from deeper in the soil.
  • White Clover
    • Sow in spring to late summer
    • Perennial plant, Slow to establish
    • 6.0-7.0 pH desired. If it is below 6 you will need lime to correct.
    • 30-35% protein.
  • Field peas
    • Sow early spring to summer
    • Annual plant
    • 6.0-7.0 pH required
    • 25-30% protein
    • 4-5 hours of sun per day
  • Hairy vetch
    • Sow in fall
    • Will regrow in the spring, perennial
    • 6.0-7.0 pH is desired
    • Grows best in semi to partial shade but will handle full sun.
  • Alfalfa
    • 22 to 30 percent protein
    • Requires full sun
    • Drought resistant but 6.2 to 6.8 pH is adequate and will keep this plant alive but 7.0 is what you really need for this plant to thrive
    • May be subject to over browsing if used on a small plot
    • May need insecticides to grow successfully
  • Soybeans
    • Nutrient rich forage consisting of up to 35% protein, easily digestible.
    • Nutrients leave the plant once the leaves turn yellow, great early season option.
    • Soybeans do best in well-drained soils such as clay or sandy loams with a pH between 5.9 and 7.0, requires high quality soil
    • Best for use in larger food plots. may be subject to overgrazing on smaller plots
    • Full sun required
  • LabLab
    • 25 to 30 percent crude protein in fields with good soil fertility
    • Requires at least 6.0 pH for maximum growth
    • Full Sun (6-8 hours)
    • Annual
  • Cowpeas
    • Prone to over browsing (1 to 2 acre plot minimum)
    • Full Sun (6-8 hours)
    • Ideal pH 5.5-6.5
    • Annual
  • Birdsfoot trefoil
    • Perennial
    • Adapts well to poorly drained, low-pH soils
    • Prefers full sun but will grow in slight shade.

NON LEGUMES

  • Annual ryegrass
    • Sow in spring to late summer
    • Annual
    • 6.0-7.0 pH ideal
    • Grows best in moist, well-drained soil with full sun, although it will also grow in filtered shade
  • Buckwheat
    • Sow in spring
    • Annual, may get 2 or 3 grow seasons if you allow the plant to go to seed before cutting.
    • Grows quickly
    • Great for weed competition, will shade them out due to its thick canopy.
    • 5.5-6.0 pH ideal
    • Requires full sun to partial afternoon shade
  • Oats
    • 15-25% protein
    • Most attractive when the soil is 6.0-7.0 pH.Sow in spring to late summer
    • Annual
    • Prefers morning or midday sun, will take full sun or indirect sunlight.
  • Tilling radish
    • Sow in fall
    • Fast growing
    • Taproots reduce soil compaction which is how they get their name. Great for no till plots.
    • 5.5 to 7.5 pH required
    • Full to partial sun.
  • Winter rye
    • Sow in late summer
    • 5.0-7.0 pH works best, will tolerate 4.5-8.0 pH
    • Perennial
    • Full sun is ideal but will tolerate partial sun as well
    • Great for late season plots
  • Winter Wheat
    • Sow in fall
    • 6.4 pH or greater is required for winter wheat
    • Wheat is more tolerant of shade and wetter soils than other cereal grains
    • 15% to 25% crude protein
    • Hardy Annual
Snowy food plot picture

ADDING FRUIT TREES TO YOUR PLOTS

Fruit trees can be a great addition to a food plot or a hunting property. They provide the heard with a high energy food source to help them prepare and pack on calories for winter. We will discuss some of the top options you could add to your whitetail property to draw in more deer. At my hunting property it is my current goal to have a food source available all year round for the heard in the area. Between the food plot and the fruit trees we aim to have a food source at their disposal all year round. Do your research and take that into consideration when choosing which trees to add to your plots. Some trees are not self fertile meaning you will need two trees to help them cross pollinate. Trees that are self fertile may also benefit from having multiple trees and it can help produce more fruit.

Apples on an apple tree

APPLE TREES

Apple trees are highly attractive to deer and is a common choice for hunters trying to draw more deer into their property. When you first plant a tree make sure you protect it because deer will often eat the foliage and the fresh chutes. Apple trees are not self fertile, you will need two trees of a different variety to bear fruit. Also be sure to choose trees that bloom during the same time to maximize your production. Apples aid in a deer’s digestion process and can help their food break down quicker. This allows them to consume more and helps them pull in more nutrients before the harsh winter months. One full size mature apple tree can produce up to 500 pounds of apples a year. Dwarf apple trees can take 2-3 years to start producing apples but are smaller in comparison to a standard sized tree and will not produce as much fruit. A standard size tree will take about 8 to 10 years to produce fruit.

Pears on a pear tree

PEAR TREES

Pear Trees are another good option for the herd. Many claim that grown buck could be more fond of pear trees and some say they have seen them walk right past the ripe apple trees to get to the pear trees. Pear trees can grow from 40 to 50 feet tall and can thrive in wetter areas then apples. Mature Pear trees will produce around 150 pounds of pears a year and can take 5-10 years to produce fruit.

Persimmons on a persimmon tree

PERSIMMONS

Persimmons grow naturally in some areas. In the early season some varieties can be slightly astringent due to the tannins in the plant. Persimmons a good late season plant to consider adding to your plot. They start producing fruit from September to November and the fruits start to ripen in late November early December. Some varieties are self pollinating but the American persimmon is not meaning you will need two or more plants. Persimmon trees get about 60 feet tall with a 25 to 30 foot spread. An average persimmon tree can produce around 55 pounds of persimmons a year. Persimmon trees can take 6 to 7 years to produce fruit.

Chestnut on a chestnut tree in the fall

CHESTNUT TREES

Chestnut Trees are another great addition to a whitetail property. They will only produce nuts for about one month though and after they are all gone the activity may taper off in the area if they don’t have other food sources available in this area. Chestnuts start dropping nuts late September/early October making them a great choice for early bow season. Chestnuts are sweeter then acorns because they lack the bitter tannins that are found in acorns. These also have twice the protein and up to 4x the carbohydrates that acorns have. Chestnuts trees will bear fruit every single year unlike oak trees which may only produce heavily once every three years. Chestnut trees begin to bear fruit in 3-5 years and by 10 years can produce 15-20 pounds per tree. An older tree can produce 50-100 pounds. This is a little quicker then planting oak trees.

Mulberries on a mulberry tree

MULBERRY TREE

Deer love the fresh growth that comes from the mulberry tree and can eat up to 10 pounds of mulberries each day which is about one third of the entire tree. Mulberries provide necessary sugars and carbohydrates that can help them store fats and energy for the winter and are also high in other vitamins and minerals that deer need. Mulberries are also high in fiber which helps their digestive system. The berries of this tree will ripen in late spring, early summer long before other fruit trees begin producing fruit which can be an essential key to creating a property with year long food sources. Mulberry trees grow fast and can produce significant crops within 3-5 years of planting but you may have to fence in your new trees until they mature to protect them from the deer.

Acorn on an oak tree

OAK TREES

Oak trees produce acorns which can be a major staple in a whitetails diet in some areas. They grow naturally in many areas in the united states. White oaks are better then white oaks because they are more palatable. Red oaks contain higher levels of tannins which makes them more bitter. Oak trees can be hard to find in some areas and can make for a great mid season hunting area as they start to drop their acorns in September and October in most areas! Oak trees can take up to 20 years to produce acorns and peak production occurs from 50 to 80 years.

ADDING WOODY BROWSE FOR LATE SEASON FOOD SOURCES

Red Osier Dogwood, otherwise known as Red Twig Dogwood, deserves a spot in this article. Red osier dogwood is a great addition to any whitetail property, especially if you are trying to give your heard additional cover for added protection and comfort. This plant grows to 15-20 feet tall and can spread to about 10 feet. Red Osier Dogwood is easy to propagate if done properly at the right time of the year. To propagate red osier dogwood take hardwood cuttings in the spring before the buds start to open. These cuttings may be rooted in water or placed directly in the ground with or without rooting hormones. There are a few videos on YouTube that can help to guide you through this process. Red osier Dogwood taste similar to apples which is likely one of the reasons deer find this plant attractive. Make sure to trim this plant accordingly so that the fresh growth is within their browse line for the best results. You may want to cage this plant off for the first year so it can become established. This plant will also provide your deer heard with a late season food source to help them through the winter.

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